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Rarely traveled, or even spoken about by the American tourist, Molise is nothing less than any of its more-glamorous neighbors and harbors some very distinct and tasty food. There are no five-star hotels in Molise, and virtually no restaurants in the super elegant category. However, there stand several that I have found to be honest, delicious and excellent representatives of local, tasty cooking.


Molise is the central roadway of the transumanza, the centuries-old migration of people and their cattle and sheep herds. At the end of the summer, shepherds would take their animals from the cool, high plains of what is now called Abruzzo, down to the warmer, flat lands near the coast on their way to what is now Foggia, in northern Puglia. They traveled along wide-road-like paths called tratturi, many of which are still visible and even used in modern times.

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